How to Dress for an Interview

I’m just going to say it: Career Service’s Interview Dress Guide is crap. I agree with the whole “understated” and “conservative” angle. But “skin-colored hoisery” and “portfolio in place of handbag or purse”? Don’t think so.

I had 18 interviews this fall and in every single one of them I watched a parade of people go by, from Middlebury and other schools, who had followed their school career guide to the letter: countless girls with super-straight hair pulled back in a ponytail, pearl studs, black suit with white blouse, pants or skirt and hose, .5 in. heels, Longchamp purses and black portfolios with a school logo. It was like watching a parade of droids or “Job Interviews: The Stepford Edition.” The lack of individuality afforded by the process was mind boggling.

So I changed it. I never wore a jacket or a suit. My heels were 4 inches. Statement necklace. Super skinny skirt. Tiny belt. White or black blouse, sleeves rolled up to the elbows like I’ve been buried in files all day. I carried my (mother’s) trusty square Louis Vuitton full of pens, Moleskine notebooks and business cards. No portfolio. Just a file folder to be pulled out only if necessary. Hosiery? Not over my dead body.

When dressing for job interviews, I say dress like you already have a job, not like you want one (this goes for men and women). In other words, when you get on the subway before your all day interview or call your mom at Barnes & Noble afterward, no one should be able to tell whether you’re dressed for an interview or a business meeting. Jobs anymore are about being a team player, working in groups, etc. But, especially for your first few jobs, you can’t lose your independence or personality in the process. Your clothes allow you to be/express yourself while your actions are about others. I realize that dressing against the guidelines is risky, but it’s important. (N.B. In no way am I talking about cutoffs, sandals and visible bra straps here. Those are still out.) If you choose to dress more like yourself, a little more independently, a little against the trusty guidelines and tradition, and a prospective employer docks you because of it, then they’re not worth it. To them, you would have become just another number anyway.

My own suggestions after the jump. Take them at your own risk.***

Women:

The suit: Here, I agree with career guides, suits with skirts are preferable to suits with pants. It’s more feminine that way. If you want to be different, avoid black. Go with navy blue or deep gray. Add some pinstripes in the winter if your figure allows. Don’t wear a blouse underneath. Wear a white, beige or gray tshirt or camisole. Try pink in the summer. Skirts and pants should be as skinny as possible without showing your underwear lines. Word to the wise, however, Barney’s doesn’t  have a suiting section on their online shop. Hence, suits are by no means necessary.

The separates: When going for separates, avoid a jacket. Wear a blouse that is clearly not meant to be worn with a jacket. Roll up the sleeves or maybe avoid French-cuffs. Try a tuxedo blouse or one with non-distinct prints in black and white. A basic white or black blouse also works. Dark greens, purples and blues can be flattering if your skin tone allows but can sometimes look less professional. Again, try light pastels in the summer. When wearing a skirt, make it skinny in black, navy, brown or grey. If wearing pants (for more casual interviews), make them skinny, too. I say skinny for everything because a) it looks more youthful, fashion-foward and b) it produces less static. A great alternative overall outfit would be something Mad Men style: bright colored cardigan completely buttoned up with a wool pencil skirt. You can also wear a dress if you can find a shift dress or a boat neck with sleeves.

The accessories: Wear your favorite pair of earrings. Bold necklaces and bracelets are a good compliment, especially if your outfit is all black. Never button your shirt up all the way. Wear your favorite perfume and do your makeup as usual, erring on the conservative side. GOOP’s 5 minute makeover is a good place to start. Don’t wear hose, ever. Maybe black opaque tights if it’s below freezing. You’re in your 20s in the 21st century. You’re allowed to show some skin. Just make sure your legs are shaved and maybe slightly shiny. Underwear should be in skin tones if you’re wearing white or any color if you’re wearing darks. If you need an outer jacket, make it a trench coat or a cross between a baby doll and military jacket.

The shoes: Closed-toe are obviously preferable. Peep toe, if nice enough, could work. Who gives a damn about height. If you can walk in 4 in. heels and you’d wear them to work anyway, then wear them to your interview. Show off a little. Try to stick to black or nude, but if you find something else that’s perfect, wear that. If you’ve ever seen a pair of Louboutin‘s, however, you know that nude and black are far from boring. If you’ve found a good dress, and it’s winter, you could try a pair of black boots with heels.

The purse: Either buy a designer portfolio or keep everything in your purse. Never put anything on the table in front of you until it’s absolutely necessary. You want to be completely open and cause as few distractions as possible. A notepad looks more professional if it has a cover, like a Moleskine, so the whole world can’t see your scribbles. Make sure the purse is structured like a briefcase though isn’t actually a briefcase. That’s way too Michelle Pfieffer in the ’90s. Don’t bring a Lonchamp or any hobo purse, even if it’s Gucci. It has no structure and speaks of laziness.

At the end, make it sleek, make it feminine and wear it with confidence. Even if you just change one thing from the interview guides, whether it’s your jewelry or your shoes, you’ll be a step ahead of everyone else and let your interviewer know just a little bit about yourself that’s not on your resume. For further ideas, watch the series Lipstick Jungle. Powerful women in creative, powerful jobs. Fabulous clothes.

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Men:

For men, it’s pretty hard to disagree with the interview guides. Suit. Belt matches the shoes. But it’s also easy to follow the interview guides and still look like terrible. Basically, always wear a suit, never khakis with a sport coat (except for maybe if it’s start up internet company run by 28 year olds). Here are some suit suggestions, however, that will make people do a double-take.

The Power Suit: In all my interviews, I never saw a guy wearing a power suit: a rich navy blue with a red tie and crisp white shirt. I don’t really know why. Politicians do it all the time because it instills voter confidence. When in a job interview, if your employer has some confidence in you, you’re already on your way to the job. So try a power suit. If you’re wearing a basic suit, try a striped shirt to mix things up a little.

The Skinny Suit: A skinny suit, where the legs of your pants are like poster tubes instead of drainage pips, screams young European businessman. Note: You cannot find these at Brooks Brothers. Department stores and designer styles are your best bet. When the suit is skinny, it looks best in navy blue or a gray. Again, pinstripes in the winter. You’ll probably still want a white shirt underneath. Try one with French-cuffs and add some links, even little ones. Watch White Collar or the last half hour of (500) Days of Summer for inspiration.

Sans-tie: When my uncle dropped me off at one of my interviews, he saw one of my fellow interviewees and gasped, “What, no tie?!” I agree with him, it doesn’t really look impressive to see a guy interviewing without a tie. I’ve seen one exception, however. There was one guy, in all his lacrosse playing, blond hair glory, who was wearing a designer suit (likely Ralph Lauren Black Label) that had been perfectly tailored to fit his body. It was black and narrow. He wore a crisp white shirt, French-cuffs, underneath with no tie. He left his jacket unbuttoned. Whoa. I honestly thought he already worked at the firm. Personal tailoring is an expensive route to go, but it screams of personal attention and detail and is a nice touch.

The accessories: Keep it simple. An oversized watch speaks to timeliness. Bold ties in solids or contrasting patterns, no bow ties. Try long and narrow. If using cuff-links, don’t be ostentatious, but don’t be afraid to wear them in colors. Belts should be leather, never canvas. And, of course, a portfolio, but never one with your school logo. In six months, you won’t be at the school any more. Why need the logo? If you absolutely need a bag, try something that brings out your inner stylish architect.

The shoes: The shinier, the better. I find ox-blood red/mahogany/burgundy to be chic and attractive right now. It goes with everything. Slip-ons are fine if they’re a good brand but polished pointed toe oxfords are great, especially if you’re wearing a grey or a skinny suit.

Again, at the end, make it sleek, not good-old-boy masculine and wear it with confidence. Shave within 24 hrs before and get a hair cut within one month before. If you’re going to change one thing, make it your dress shirt or your shoes. And, if you do one thing before an interview, watch Tom Ford give one.

Comments, critiques, additions and further suggestions are more than welcome.

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*Disclaimer #1: All my interviews and jobs have been finance and consulting related. That does not mean these recommendations do not apply for other places. Always, however, have a feel for the culture of the firm before going into an interview and always dress more formally than your interviewers.
**Disclaimer #2: I’m not trying to win the award for finding affordable clothing. I believe in starting with the finest as an example and then adapting to fit your own budget.
***Disclaimer #3: I will not hide that these suggestions are geared toward the undergrad or recent graduate student, but that doesn’t mean that others shouldn’t pay attention.