Lady Gaga debuted a new song, “Government Hooker” at the Thierry Mugler Women’s Aw11 show in Paris today.

Whereas my response to “Born this Way” was a resounding, ” …”, my response to this is most certainly, “Yes.”

It’s well choreographed and well produced. Lady Gaga’s club anthem and stage presence are a good fit. Despite the futuristic, edgy setting, the clothes are not outstandingly unwearable. The drama is produced by a slight point in the shoulders, the swoop of a hat and the monochromatic scheme. Watch some of the models as they turn around and notice the tailoring along and in between the shoulder blades.

I particularly want the blue look at 1:45.

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Iselin Steiro by Daniel Jackson for The Last Magazine featuring “Bloody Palms” by Phantogram.

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The Bulldog Beach Short

by Ems on March 1, 2011 · 0 comments

in Style

I saw these swim shorts on Kempt today and immediately

a) sent the link to A.
b) wished I could be seen on the beach with a man in these shorts.

Solid cut? Check. Utilitarian? Check (zippered pockets). Simple to customize to one’s personality? Check, just change the color. A classic alternative–without getting too small–to the swim shorts so big it looks like you’re wearing pants.

BULLDOG – Class Beach Short by Orlebar Brown

Bulldog

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From what I gather, the current unrest in the Middle East is being followed for three major reasons:

1) Concern about oil/safety/foreign relations (they’re all intertwined)
2) The growing power and role of social media (a little blue bird is toppling autocratic regimes)
3) When was the last time any of us (i.e. Americans) actually saw a revolution that wasn’t a re-enactment in a lower school gymnasium?

Based on those three reasons, there’s a lot of speculating about what happens next. Who will take control? When will the volatility settle? How long before there is actually reform? Will it get anymore violent?

Suzy Menkes raises her own “this is what will happen” point in an article from the IHT on February 26. If everything works out for the protestors, if regimes change and reforms are installed, one thing is certain: the middle class in the Middle East is going to grow. This has broad implications, in particular, for the luxury business.

Menkes quotes Michael Burke, chief executive of Fendi:

“This could be the best news since 1978, when China decided to go with the market economy,” said Mr. Burke, lamenting that in Egypt, a country of almost 83 million people, he does not have a single Fendi product on sale — even though its wealthy elite may have bought into luxury. “For every dictator, we could have one million customers. Traditionally, we do well when the many are integrated into society.”

Mr. Burke’s comments do not indicate that LVMH, Fendi’s parent company, is going to set-up boutiques in Libya anytime soon–the luxury industry is not about volatility and change and is, in general, not able to cope with it until the situation has died down. However, Mr. Burke’s observations about market economies and his blatant revenue chasing are telling.

The revolution(s) in the Middle East could go several ways. There is no certainty that progress will be made, especially in the short term. Even the countries that aren’t yet facing protests, let alone the ones that are, face other problems like rapidly growing populations and a standard of living that cannot keep pace. At the end of it all, however, these protests and revolutions are fundamentally about a skewed distribution of wealth. And, the moment that a little re-distribution starts to happen (even if that moment is years away), the middle class, also known as the driver of consumerism, is going to be front and center. And, if Menkes’ article is any indication about the mentality of the international business/retail industry, there are a lot of people poised to make money as soon as the average person in the Middle East starts earning a little more of their own.

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After 24hrs of reflection, here are my favorites from last night’s Oscars. For menswear, is was all about jacket detail, as if the actors’ stylists have been debating for months how wide lapels should be. For womenswear, it was all about how well the frame of the dress fit the frame of the woman.

 

Photos via NYMag and GiltMANual.

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I’m not going to critique Lady Gaga’s new “Born This Way Video” — mostly because I don’t know where to begin to like or dislike it — I’m just going to put it at the bottom of this post and give you some other videos to watch first. While all three are very different songs and videos, they don’t apologize for style. Respect.

The Vaccines, “If You Wanna” (via We All Want Someone to Shout For)

<a href="http://youtube.com/watch?v=uQKjI6395iU">http://youtube.com/watch?v=uQKjI6395iU</a>

Phantogram, “When I’m Small” (via Tympanogram)

<a href="http://youtube.com/watch?v=28tZ-S1LFok">http://youtube.com/watch?v=28tZ-S1LFok</a>

Lady Gaga, “Born This Way”

<a href="http://youtube.com/watch?v=wV1FrqwZyKw">http://youtube.com/watch?v=wV1FrqwZyKw</a>

 

 

 

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Founding Gardeners: The Revolutionary Generation, Nature, and the Shaping of the American Nationit would be, “Why did you apologize for using metaphors?”

In an article in the latest edition of FT Weekend, Simon Schama reviews Andrea Wulf’s new book, The Founding Gardeners: How the Revolutionary Generation Created an American Eden. In the review, entitled in print “The Seeds of Democracy“, Schama writes the following:

“The link between botany and liberty was already commonplace by the time of the American Revolution. It had germinated (sorry about these metaphors) in 18th-century readings of Pliny and Cicero, with their evocations, at once poetic and stoic of the Tusculan Villa — the place to which patricians would repair to shake off the contaminations of the vicious city and muse on the industriousness of bees.” [emphasis added]

Another metaphor:

“[S]he unpersuasively pushes the indispensable centrality of botanising to the shaping of American politics. In practice this means the presentation of potted episodes of political history alongside genteel botanising as if the former was conditional on the latter.” [emphasis added]

I’ve never read one of Simon Schama’s books (though I’ve bought at least one copy of nearly everyone of them for the male members of my family) so I won’t presume to know the motivations behind his apology, mostly because the directions are so vast. Does he think metaphors are a cheap trick? That they are detachment from reality? Is he unworthy of them or vice versa? Is he a believer first and foremost in utility and, begrudgingly, finds the metaphor to be the most adequate tool to convey his tongue-in-cheek response to Wulf’s thesis?

But why does he not apologize for the personification of the city as something vicious or the alliterated presentation of potted political history?

Thus, Simon Schama, unless you are covertly admitting to be solely responsible for intertwining the lexicons of botany and nation building (unlikely), I want to know what is so wrong or embarrassing about a little metaphor here an there.

 

 

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A study in video color-blocking.

<a href="http://youtube.com/watch?v=HAfFfqiYLp0">http://youtube.com/watch?v=HAfFfqiYLp0</a>

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I recently helped convince A to buy a narrow, hammered copper bracelet at Barney’s. He’d been looking for some small piece of jewelry but charms/necklaces/silver chains/dollar signs all just seemed a little much and not really masculine enough to wear with a suit. (P.S., A, I think thin leather bands like those you can buy for a euro from vendors in Italy would also look good. Add that to the list.)

However, copper and leather bands pale in comparison to the new Swarovski Elements accessories for men. Shiny, discrete and sophisticated.

<a href="http://youtube.com/watch?v=5FWnBkRe2IM">http://youtube.com/watch?v=5FWnBkRe2IM</a>

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